Text: Ben Davis (The White Paper)
Video: Masaki Miyamoto
Special Thanks: Shiga Asa Kogyo
Located on the eastern side of Lake Biwa, the Koto region has been producing textiles for more than six centuries. Historically, the local Omi merchants brought hemp, ramie and other raw materials to the region, where the combination of high humidity and clean water, flowing down from the Suzuka Mountains, creates optimal conditions for dyeing and weaving. High-quality wares such as "Omi-jofu", one of Japan’s three main hemp fabrics, were sent across the water and along the Nakasendo route through the interior, establishing the region as a leading centre for hemp textiles.
While Omi-jofu fabrics continue to be handwoven to this day, the techniques and knowledge involved in their production also provided the foundation for the Koto region’s modern textile industry. Founded more than eight decades ago, Shiga Asa is one of a handful of manufacturers still in operation, having endured through its pursuit of high-quality natural fabrics for clothing, bedding and interior use. The company’s appetite for experimentation made it an ideal partner for developing the latest additions to the Futo collection.
The process began with waffle fabric. Aiming to find a waffle weave with the perfect mix of comfort and functionality, Asako Sakata from KINTO’s product development team began experimenting with her Shiga Asa counterparts. Sensing that a 100% hemp weave would be too delicate for the rigours of daily use, their focus shifted to using organic cotton for the warp threads and linen for the weft. Through a cycle of testing, reviewing and making adjustments, they gradually increased the thread count to create an original fabric with a soft, plump texture. “Rather than creating something with the comfort of a fluffy cotton pile towel, we aimed for something more lightweight, quick-drying and easy to use through the course of daily life,” says Sakata.
The same waffle fabric was used for towels in three sizes, calculated for both ease of use and minimising leftover material during production. There’s also a multi-purpose blanket that can be used as a throw rug or taken to picnics in its drawstring carry bag. With each design, an emphasis was placed on showcasing the appearance and texture of the original material. While some threads were left undyed in their natural hues, skein dyeing was used for the grey linen. The technique involves loops of yarn being immersed in a dye bath, allowing pigments to penetrate the threads while maintaining their natural texture – something that can be felt in the finished products.
“Each and every square is densely packed with threads. The structure of the fabric means that the front has more linen exposed, making it smooth and highly absorbent, while the back has more organic cotton – adding to its softness,” explains Sakata. “That’s one of the truly unique things about this original fabric.”