Text: Ben Davis (The White Paper)
Translation: Yuto Miyamoto
Video: Masaki Miyamoto
Special Thanks: Furuhashi Weaving
The origins of "bafu" (horse cloth), the fabric used for the Futo apron, can be traced back to the world of horse riding. Made from thick, densely woven cotton, bafu is usually placed under the rider’s saddle to protect the horse’s back. Over time, the firm cloth gradually softens and gains character. “This kind of high-density fabric is something you’d only find in the Enshu region (of western Shizuoka prefecture),” explains Asako Sakata from KINTO’s product development team. “The warp threads are so tightly packed that it’s impossible to even count them.”
The maker of this particular fabric is Furuhashi Weaving, a family-owned manufacturer founded in 1928. Its factories in Hamamatsu are home to 20 old-fashioned shuttle looms, which slowly weave natural materials with unique softness and warmth. This balance between function and familiarity made Furuhashi’s high-density fabric an ideal match for the apron, which is designed to be used not only when making coffee or cooking at home, but also for everyday tasks and even in the garden.
The sawtooth-shaped roof that remains at Furuhashi Weaving is a symbol of traditional weaving mills. Designed to let in natural light, it allows artisans to inspect fine threads by eye.
Nearby lies Lake Hamana, surrounded by a calm, open landscape.
“I imagined it being used roughly, so the fabric’s thickness and resistance to wear and tear were important,” adds Sakata. “But when it comes to daily use, an apron needs more than just durability – it also needs to be light.”
Respecting the material’s unique characteristics called for a design that wouldn’t waste even a scrap of fabric. This meant creating a beautiful shape based on straight lines and free of any unnecessary elements. The focus on simplicity translates to even the smallest of details, such as button holes for threading the waist string to secure the apron in place. The firmness of the fabric also removed the need for any backing, resulting in a single layer of material that can be worn, washed and dried with ease.
One of the most distinctive details is the selvedge edge, which has been retained from the uncut roll of fabric. The selvedge is created during production to prevent the fabric distorting and unravelling, particularly as the weft thread moves back and forth on the shuttle loom. “Futo specialises in fabrics, so I’m always looking at these edges to understand how and why materials have been woven a certain way,” says Sakata. “The selvedge shows the fabric’s identity.”
This identity is shaped by the hands of craftspeople working together to continue Enshu’s long history of textile production. From the spinning and dyeing of yarn to weaving, finishing and inspection, the various steps are completed by factories with specialised skills who depend on each other to bring textiles to completion. It’s a fragile ecosystem where even one missing link – a factory closing down – can affect production indefinitely, inspiring Furuhashi Weaving and its fellow makers to continue working tirelessly to support one another.